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THE OFFICIAL WEBPAGE OF ROBERT D. WEST |
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Living in Salem, Oregon for two years, I amassed a lot of pictures of the city; so many that one page wasn't enough. This is Part 1, featuring Salem's main historical sites. The following links will jump to the other sections.
I referred to many internet resources for this project, including the City of Salem, the Salem Historic Landmarks Commission, Salem Online History, the Oregon Historic Photograph Collections, Salem Historical Quarterly and the Salem Oregon Community Guide. Other internet resources are linked throughout the pages. I also used a 1965-1966 copy of the Oregon Blue Book. Historical photographs and some graphics were photographed from interpretive displays at various locations in Salem. Most other graphics, including maps, are my own creations, though they may be based on maps from other sources.
Please note that while this page does not include West Salem, Keizer, Turner, Aumsville, Stayton, Brooks, Gervais or other nearby towns, I do have a separate page about Antique Powerland in Brooks.
Introduction
The location now known as Salem, Oregon was originally called Chemeketa, a Native American term the roughly translates to "place of rest." The word "Salem" comes from the Bible; it is derived from the Hebrew word shalom, and means peace. The Methodist missionaries who first settled here adopted the term in the late 1840s for their new town. Oregon's territorial capitol moved from Oregon City to Salem in 1850, and there were discussions in the territorial legislature in December 1853 of changing the name of the capitol city. One of the main suggestions was a return to the name Chemeketa, but other names considered included Chemawa, Woronoco, Multnomah, Willamette, Thurston, Bronson, Valena, Durham, Corrona, Victoria and Corvallis (which ended up being given to another city). Among the more interesting names suggested were Pike, Algebra, and Valleyopolis. In the end, the name of Salem was retained. Salem became the official Oregon state capitol in 1864 by popular vote. By 1920, Salem was one of four cities in Oregon with populations greater than 10,000 people; the other cities were Astoria, Eugene and Portland.
Salem is currently Oregon's third largest city, after Portland and Eugene. Salem once had a major cherry-growing industry, and is nicknamed the Cherry City. Salem has held cherry festivals in the past, and the local bus system is called Cherriots.
1. Grier Building 960 Broadway NE
OREGON HISTORY SALEM BEGAN HERE
IN THE FALL OF 1840, THE OREGON METHODIST MISSION UNDER JASON LEE DAMMED MILL CREEK BELOW THIS BRIDGE WEST OF WHAT IS NOW LIBERTY STREET. THEY ERECTED A LUMBER MILL. TWO YEARS LATER A FLOUR MILL WAS ADDED. IN 1856, THE WILLAMETTE WOOLEN MANUFACTURING COMPANY CHANNELED MORE WATER FROM THE SANTIAM RIVER TO MILL CREEK FOR A NEW FACTORY, THE FIRST POWER-OPERATED WOOLEN MILLS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. THE MILLS BURNED IN 1876. IN THE SPRING OF 1841, THE MISSIONARIES BUILT THE FIRST HOUSE IN SALEM, WHICH WITH ADDITIONS STOOD AT 960 NE BROADWAY. IT HAS SINCE BEEN MOVED TO THE MISSION MILL MUSEUM. OCCUPIED BY FOUR FAMILIES INCLUDING THAT OF JASON LEE, IT LATER HOUSED SALEM’S SECOND STORE, FIRST POST OFFICE, AND THE TREASURY OF THE TERRITORY OF OREGON. LATER MOVED TO THE BRICK BUILDING AT 888 NE LIBERTY.
CENTENNIAL MARKER MARION COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Historical Photos: Grier Building Detail, 1972-1973 Grier Building Plaque, 1972-1973
2. Mission Mill Museum 1313 Mill Street SE
The Mission Mill Museum presents two separate pieces of Salem's history: Jason Lee's Methodist Mission and the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill.
Sent by the Methodist Church, Reverend Jason Lee accompanied Nathaniel Wyeth's fur trading expedition to Oregon in 1834, leading a small missionary party. The group arrived at the Hudson Bay Company's Fort Vancouver and Dr. John McLoughlin advised Lee to select a mission site in the Willamette Valley. After examining the valley, Lee took the advice and established the Oregon Methodist Mission on the banks of the Willamette River about 10 miles north of what is now Salem, erecting log houses and a school for native-American children. This site is now Willamette Mission State Park. More missionaries continued to arrive at the mission, coming both by sea and overland on the Oregon Trail, and by 1840 the mission was home to over fifty men, women & children. In the fall of 1840 they built a dam on Mill Creek at a place called Chemeketa Prairie and built a water-powered sawmill. In the spring of 1841 they built Oregon's first wood-frame house at Chemeketa Prairie using wood from the sawmill and relocated the mission there. This location is now called Salem. As the missionaries started farming and raising livestock and came to view Oregon as their home, their efforts changed from evangelizing to the native-Americans to building a town, and the Methodist mission was disbanded in 1844.
Additional Links: Jason Lee at Salem Online History
The leadership of the Methodist Church called Jason Lee back to the east coast in late 1843. Though he intended to return to Oregon, he fell ill while visiting friends and family, and died at his family home in Stanstead, Canada on March 12, 1845 at the age of 41. Salem's history was continued by who originally came to Oregon as Methodist missionaries. Here is some information about some of those who shaped early Salem.
Lewis Hubbel Judson was born in 1808 and came to the Methodist Mission in 1840 aboard the Lausanne with parts for the saw and grist mills. His training as a wheelwright gave him the ability to oversee the construction of the mills and the Jason Lee House, where he lived for a time. After the mission disbanded in 1844, Judson and William Willson purchased the sawmill, and Judson surveyed the route of the Salem Ditch to divert water from the Santiam River to Mill Creek. Judson went on to be active in various business enterprises and served as a magistrate in Oregon's Provisional Government and as Marion County Surveyor. Judson passed away in 1880.
Additional Links: Lewis Judson at Salem Online History
William Holden Willson was born in 1805, and came to Oregon in a group of Methodist missionaries in 1837. He was assigned to the Willamette station in 1841, after serving at other stations. His experience as a former ship's carpenter proved useful as he helped to construct buildings at the mission's new site in what would become Salem. Later, he helped develop the Salem Ditch, platted the town of Salem and gave it its name. Willson married Chloe Clark, first teacher of the Oregon Institute, which later became Willamette University, and Willson himself served as a trustee of the school. Willson died in 1856. The grounds surrounding the Oregon State Capitol are named Willson Park in his honor.
Additional Links: William H. Willson at Salem Online History
Alvin F. Waller was born in 1808. Reverend Waller came to Oregon with the Methodist Mission's Great Reinforcement of 1840, and built Oregon's first Protestant Church building in Oregon City. He was put in charge of the mission station in The Dalles in 1844. Waller moved to Salem in 1847 and served as agent for Willamette University, raising funds for the school's first brick building. Waller owned a large amount of property in Salem, and donated much of it to Willamette University and the City of Salem. He also donated the tract for a dam on Mill Creek to divert water to the mill race. The dam is named the Waller Dam in his honor, as is Willamette University's Waller Hall. Reverend Waller died in 1872.
Jason Lee House
Historical Photos: Jason Lee House in preparation for move, February 28, 1963 Jason Lee House in preparation for move, March 5, 1963 Jason Lee House moving under Center Street Bridge, July 23, 1965
Methodist Parsonage
Historical Photos: Methodist Parsonage, 1945-1965 Methodist Parsonage ready to be moved, 1965-1975
John Daniel Boon House
John Daniel Boon was born in 1817. He became a Methodist lay minister and came to Oregon in 1845. He built a single story house on Mill Creek across from the Jason Lee House. Boon was Lewis Judson's brother-in-law, and he worked at the saw mill and grist mill. He went on to incorporate the Willamette Woolen Manufacturing Company, which was the first woolen manufacturer on the west coast, operating from 1857 to 1876. Boon served as treasurer for the Oregon Territory and the State of Oregon, and was involved in various businesses including dry goods merchandising, and railroad and telegraph communications. He passed away in 1864.
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Pleasant Grove Presbyterian Church
Thomas Kay Woolen Mill
After the Methodist mission was disbanded, Lewis H. Judson and William H. Willson purchased the mission's sawmill and grist mill and put them in the charge of Charles Craft. Craft had come to Oregon in 1845 by way of the Oregon Trail. With the mission closed, Craft was able to live in the nearby Jason Lee House while he managed the mills. Craft also operated a tannery, and he was involved in the creation of the Salem Ditch, a channel designed to divert water from the Santiam River into Mill Creek to provide enough water to keep the mill operating during the summer, when Mill Creek's natural water level was very low.
The Salem Ditch began as a natural trough between what is now Stayton and Aumsville that Lewis H. Judson and William H. Willson located. They determined that the trough could be enhanced to divert water during the summer, giving them a constant source of water power from Mill Creek for year-round milling operation. Oregon's Provisional Government gave them permission to create the diversion channel, and Judson began surveying the project. Progress on the Salem Ditch was slow at first, with various problems delaying construction. The creation of the Willamette Woolen Manufacturing Company by Joseph Watt and John D. Boon in 1855 pushed the project along, allowing it to be completed in 1856, in time to power the first woolen mill on the west coast, which the Willamette Woolen Manufacturing Company opened in 1857. With the additional flow in Mill Creek, more industries could be powered by it, but there was only so much room on its banks.In order to make room for more water-powered industries in Salem, the Waller Dam was built in 1864 to divert water from Mill Creek into a manmade channel called a millrace. The millrace diverges from Mill Creek and flows through Salem in a southwesterly direction, emptying into Pringle Creek to the south, just before that creek empties into the Willamette River. Water-powered industries could now be built along the millrace as well, allowing for more industries to make their home in Salem. Salem-area industries powered by Mill Creek or the millrace included the Salem Capitol Flouring Mills, the Oregon Electric Light Company, the City Ice Works, the Oregon Pulp & Paper Company, the Salem Water Company, the Paulus Brothers Cannery and the Pioneer Oil Company.
Another Salem industry that was powered by the millrace was the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill. Thomas Lister Kay was born in 1837 in Yorkshire, England and was raised in the woolen textile industry. Kay emigrated to America, and initially worked in the woolen trade in New Jersey. He later came to Oregon and was hired as a loom boss at a woolen mill in Brownsville in 1862. Kay moved to Salem in 1888, and purchased the land and millrace rights of the Pioneer Oil Company, a linseed oil mill which had been the first industry to be powered by the millrace when it was established in the 1870s. On this site, Kay built his own woolen mill.
The Thomas Kay Woolen Mill opened in 1889. It was a large wood building, and the machinery inside was powered by a system of belts connected to overhead rotating shafts, which took their power from a turbine that was spun by the flow of water in the millrace. In 1895, a fire destroyed the original building, and the current brick mill building was built the following year. Thomas Kay died in 1900, but his mill continued to operate under his family's management until the 1960s. The Thomas Kay Woolen Mill was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on May 8, 1973 and was designated an American Treasure by the National Park Service in 2004.
Thomas Kay at Salem Online History
The Salem Oregon Community Guide has an excellent tour of the inside of the main mill building and its equipment. Click here to see their tour.
Historical Photos: Thomas Kay Woolen Mill, circa 1905 Thomas Kay Woolen Mill, circa 1950
A sheep's wool picks up debris such as burrs, seeds, twigs, leaves and straw naturally as the sheep goes about its life on the farm. These items had to be removed from the wool before it could continue in the milling process, as the debris could damage the machinery. Inside the unheated and poorly-lit 19th century brick Picker House, raw wool was put through an English Standard Picker called "Big Ben" to pick out the debris. Used 100% wool rags also came through the picker house, going through a Clark & Sons picker machine. These rags would be shredded for use as shoddy, a wool fiber that was mixed with virgin wool for fabric production (an early form of recycling).
Reconstruction of the Dye House was provided through funding from the Oregon State Historic Preservation Office, Portland General Electric, the Salem Foundation, U. S. National Bank, Pacific Northwest Bell and Willamette Industries.
A turbine is a type of horizontal water wheel that harnesses potential energy from falling water from the millrace. At the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill, water falls from a height of 12 feet into the top of the turbine. The force of the water falling against the blades causes the turbine to spin. The rotating shaft in the center of the turbine transfers this energy to the rest of the mill.
Additional Links: Mission Mill Museum at Salem Online History Mission Mill Museum at Salem Historical Quarterly Mission Mill Museum at the Salem Oregon Community Guide Marion County Historical Society at Salem Online History Marion County Historical Society at Salem Historical Quarterly Marion County Historical Society Museum at the Salem Oregon Community Guide
3. Waller Dam & Mill Race Park 2100 Ferry Street SE
Mill Creek's watershed originally consisted of about 209 miles of streams, but in 1856, the Salem Ditch was constructed to divert flow from the North Santiam River to Mill Creek to provide a constant supply of water power for Salem industry.
The Salem area is home to a variety of fish species that can be found in Mill Creek. These fish include Sculpin, Speckled Dace, Redside Shiners, and Northern Pikeminnow, as well as three species of salmonid fish: the Chinook Salmon, the Steelhead and the Cutthroat Trout.
The Chinook Salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha) is the least abundant of all the salmon species but is also the largest, sometimes reaching 100 pounds or more. Chinook salmon lay their eggs, or spawn, on gravel bars in the Willamette Rivers and its tributaries between August and October. The female digs a redd, or nest, in the gravel and lays about 5.000 eggs, which are immediately fertilized by the male. Within a few days of spawning, the adults die. In two to four months, the eggs hatch, and the juvenile fish spend several months near the place they were born, feeding and growing larger until the spring, when they migrate down the Willamette and Columbia Rivers to the Pacific Ocean. The fish live in the ocean for three to five years, migrating as far north as the Bering Sea before returning to where they were born to spawn, completing the cycle.
Most Chinook Salmon in Mill Creek return from the ocean in the spring. These Spring Chinook are native to the area. The entire Upper Willamette River system had no native Fall Chinook. Fall Chinook fingerlings from state hatcheries were first planted in Mill Creek by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife in 1968. The first adult Fall Chinook returned to Mill Creek to spawn in September and October of 1970. The early runs averaged 6,000 fish annually. A sign was posted on the fence on the opposite side of Mill Creek from Mill Race Park by the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife explaining the program when Fall Chinook were still being planted in Mill Creek and it remains there (as of 2007), largely forgotten. Fall Chinook are no longer stocked in Mill Creek, but a few Fall Chinook, descendents of those planted fingerlings, occasionally return to spawn.
The Steelhead Trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) can be found migrating throughout the year. Winter Steelhead are native to the area, leaving the ocean in the winter and swimming up the Willamette River in March and April to spawn in the spring, but Summer Steelhead that leave the ocean during the spring & summer and spawn in the winter have been introduced. Steelhead spawn in the area they were originally born, but do not die after spawning and may return to the ocean and come back to spawn again. Young Steelhead rear in the Willamette River and tributaries like Mill Creek for a year or two before migrating to the Pacific Ocean, where they live for another year or two before returning to spawn.
Although Cutthroat Trout (Oncorhynchus clarki clarki) in some areas do migrate to the Pacific Ocean, the Cutthroat in the Salem area cannot because Willamette Falls in Oregon City acts as a natural barrier to them. Fluvial Cutthroat spawn in streams like Mill Creek and migrate to larger rivers like the Willamette to fed and grow, while Resident Cutthroat live their entire lives in the same stream.
4. Willamette University 900 State Street
Jason Lee and the Methodist missionaries originally came to Oregon to spread Christianity to the Native Americans and educate them. The Salem area was populated by a group known as Kalapuyans, and the missionaries began building the Oregon Indian Mission Manual Labor School. The Kalapuyan population had dwindles due to diseases introduced by early white explorers, and the remaining Kalapuyans were not receptive to the teachings of the missionaries. The school building ended up becoming the Oregon Institute, a school for the children for the missionary settlers. The
Oregon Institute was established February 1, 1842. The original Board of Trustees consisted of David Leslie, Jason Lee, Lewis H. Judson, Josiah L. Parrish, Alanson Beers, Gustavus Hines, Ira L. Babcock, Hamilton Campbell & George Abernethy. The Oregon Institute began with six students being taught by Chloe Clark Willson, wife of William Holden Willson. The building also served as a meeting house for the early government until the first capitol building was built. The Oregon Institute became Willamette University, which was chartered in 1853.
Historical Photos:
A monument on the grounds of Willamette University commemorates the creation of the Oregon Institute and the members of the original Board of Trustees. It was placed by Lewis Judson on February 1, 1972, the 130th anniversary of the founding of the Oregon Institute.
Historical Photos: Monument Dedication, February 1, 1972
Willamette University granted its first degree to Emily J. York, a "Mistress of English Literature." It is the oldest university in the West.
Additional Links: Willamette University at Salem Online History Willamette University Historic Buildings at Salem Historical Quarterly
A. Waller Hall
Waller Hall is the oldest building on the Willamette University campus and was the university's first brick building. It was built in 1867 and was originally called University Hall. It was renamed for Reverend Alvin F. Waller, who was responsible for raising the funds for the building, served as agent for the university during its construction & donated land to the university. A fire in 1891 destroyed the top two floors. It was rebuilt with a mansard roof and a tall tower. A second fire in 1919 left only the outer walls, and it was rebuilt closer to its original appearance. Waller Hall was was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on November 20, 1975. Waller Hall was renovated in 1989 and is home to the Cone Chapel and a number of administrative offices, including the President's Office on the top floor.
Historical Photos: Waller Hall on fire, September 16, 1891 Waller Hall after fire in 1919
B. Lausanne Hall
William and Chloe Willson lived in a large house they built at the northeast corner of Court & Capitol Streets in the early 1850s. After William's death in 1856, Chloe allowed students to live in the large house, an arrangement that continued until her death in 1874. In 1880, the large house was moved onto the Willamette University campus, becoming a women's dormitory and being named Lausanne Hall after the ship that had brought the original supplies for the school in 1840. Lausanne Hall also housed the new Women's College and Musical Institute. The original Lausanne Hall was demolished in the 1920s.
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C. Gatke Hall
Additional Links: Salem Post Office at Salem Online History
Historical Photos: Gatke Hall as Salem Post Office, 1902 Gatke Hall as Salem Post Office, 1905 Gatke Hall as Salem Post Office, 1913 Gatke Hall as Salem Post Office, 1930 Gatke Hall as Salem Post Office, 1937
D. Art Building
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E. Eaton Hall
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F. Smullin Hall
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G. Star Trees
H. Truman Wesley Collins Legal Center
Historical Photos: Collins Legal Center Under Construction, December 23, 1966
I. Granite Erratic
J. Town & Gown
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